300w LiFePO4 Solar Generator $199! GOLABS R300 299wh Power Station Review | Teardown!


41 thoughts on “300w LiFePO4 Solar Generator $199! GOLABS R300 299wh Power Station Review | Teardown!

  1. The Professor reviews the GoLabs 299wh LiFePO4 solar generator with bi-directional 60W USB PD port, QC USB, and 300w pure sine inverter. Is it the best bang for the buck Jackery competitor under $200? GOLABS 300:
    CLIP $80 COUPON FIRST then use code HOBOTECH1 at checkout. The final price with $80 coupon and code HOBOTECH1 is $198.98!
    Anyone that paid over $199 will get a refund from GOLABS through Amazon!

  2. I just subscribed and love you content. It would be great if you could put a spreadsheet on your page listing the pros / cons, features, and your recommended picks for these in different sizes. It is so confusing trying to pick one of these. Thanks for your work.

  3. Has anyone had the cigarette port crap out all I get is a ER02 when I turn it on and all I used was a small 12 volt car compressor.
    Should I tear it apart and look for fuses that could have blown ?
    I can’t get the company to respond to emails and Amazon isn’t helping me get in contact either.
    Under 2 years and it craps out I’d say not the best quality or customer service

  4. Professor, my AC out stopped working due to a mistake I made by sending power from my gas generator to the ac of the golabs. A honest mistake while trying to charge the golabs with a gas generator. Is there a way to get the AC out to work back?

  5. Add a couple of big diodes in series to the positive power lead as each one can lower the voltage by around half a volt if you really want to use that solar panel that the voltage is just a little too high.

  6. I've had my SolGen for a year until I accidently plugged it into the wrong charger and its dead have you heard of this problem does it have a fuse thanks

  7. Hey..great review, thanks; you helped me decide on the R300. For any musical people out there, today I powered my 40 watt guitar amp (Victory Duchess head through a 1×12” cab) and an 8-pedal board( mostly analog 9 volters, a Strymon Flint, and an 18 volt eq) on the amp’s full power setting for 3 solid hours and an hour of standby between sets. Volume was pretty loud for the room (avg 86 db @ 1 meter, peaking at 101 or so). Started at full charge, ended at 71%…so..not even a third used. I sensed absolutely zero issues with the pedals or amp behaving strangely, and the R300 never even got warm, though the fan did turn on and off..could hardly hear it even when music stopped. Great! Solid. Thanks again.Cee

  8. I have this one. At first I bought to be able to charge my phone and my camera when I go to camping for a week or more.

    Finally it was really useful to charge the battery of my drone (A Mavic 2 pro with 60W battery, I'm able to charge my 4 battery, plus my phone and the radio command, once, so I can perform 8 flights on the land).

    But it's also really helpful for my work, when I need to connect electronic device in the middle of the forest. In fact most of my use are for my work, I should charge my company for this.

    It's clearly not designed for van life, but for those who need to charge or use electronic device out of the grid. Just, for the drones pilots who are using Mavic pro/Mavic air/Autel Evo or bigger, I would recommend the 500W version. But for the camping addict who just want to charge a phone, a GPS or a camera, the 300W version will provide them during at least a week with a single charge.

    And there are often coupons for this model on Amazon.

  9. Great job on the review (as usual). It's a solid unit, but compared to my other units, there are few annoyances with this unit. As Hobo noted the max input is 60watts, this sucks. It shuts down quickly while charging low input USB devices like a bluetooth earpiece or bluetooth earbuds. But, the thing that annoys me the most is the power button. You gotta hold the power button down for several seconds every time you want to use this thing. This may not sound like much, but it's annoying. I understand maybe you don't want to accidentally turn it on, but as I stated above, this thing will shut down in a few seconds anyway if the output is too low. I got mine for $161 on special from Amazon, so the price was right, but I find this unit very annoying.

  10. I have a couple of issues I need help with and I am not sure where else to turn. 1) In the video, you say the 12V/10amp cigarette lighter port can run a small compressor fridge. I have the next model down, the GoLabs i200 (also LiFePo, just with a 200W inverter), but it will not run my Bouge RV 37QQT. Plug it in, turn DC on, battery full charged, nada. It doesn't even let me turn the fridge on. I can run another DC device from that port, and the cable for the fridge works with my other power station (70Mai Tera 1000). I emailed GoLabs, and they replied "And for the issue you mentioned, the DC output of our power station is 12V/10A. Products such as pumps, inflators, refrigerator compressors and so on. Although their rated power is low, their peak voltage is slightly high. So the DC output of the power station can not run your fridge, we recommend you use the AC output to charge your fridge." So, why would the R300 be able to run a fridge, but not the i200? 2) My GoLabs has the same bidirectional USB Type-C. If I wanted to use this port to charge the unit from a solar panel, do I need something else besides a cable such as MC4 to USB Type-C? Would a different approach be better? Do I need a regulator of some kind if the panel is >60 watts?

  11. Great job on these videos! I can't thank you enough. You have been a great help to an idiot like me to make an educated decision on products I don't know anything about. I purchased the DLNRG branded version of this 300 size power station cause with a coupon and was $160. They appear to be identical and I assume one of the two companies is branding the other's product based on your tear down which revealed the DLNRG inverter inside your GoLABs 300. Anyway I have a question if you don't mind. I also purchased the Anker 521 and I have a Tishi Hery 120W solar panel that I use on both of these and they appear to work fine. They typically are at 60- 62W input. I like the 120w cause it can be a little cloudy or late in the day and it still provides good power. Is there any risk of hurting either of these power stations using the 120w panel when conditions are optimal or is there overload safeguards built in? Thank you for your help!

  12. Do not buy Golabs! Just returned mine. Out of the box the LCD display backlight was dead so you couldn't read anything displayed. The LED light on the back was dead. The cigarette lighter port and USB ports were dead. Only the AC outlets worked. Horrible quality control. Tried contacting support and haven't heard anything in 3 days.

  13. DO NOT BUY! Right out of the box the backlight on the LCD was dead, the little light on the back of the unit was dead, the cigarette lighter port and USB ports were dead. The only thing that worked was the AC outlets. Couldn't see anything on the LCD so impossible to determine what the state of the battery was.

    Terrible quality control. Save your money and go for a name brand.

  14. Very good review, thank you!
    I was actually confused on if the GoLabs power stations offered faster charging. The different power stations from all the brands look alike, so thanks for setting the record straight. This was a great comprehensive review, unlike others on YouTube who claimed to "review" it minutes after unboxing it.

  15. I had run it low battery flashing zero and it all shut off like all completely won't eve charge at all I'm I hooped !!! It's brand new us3d 3 times sigh 😕 😪

  16. My R300 quit working a couple of weeks ago while we were at a campground. I had been mainly using it to power a CPAP and charge our phones and tablets. The charge level was at 97% with only the USB output working, that and the work light. I switched to using the 12 volt lead acid RV house battery that I kept charged with my Sungold Power 130 watt suitcase panel. An email from Golabs via Amazon suggested I run the battery down to zero percent and then immediately recharge it to 100 percent to reset the device. The only way I could drain the battery was to run the work light constantly. Once the charge level reached 87% the AC port started working again so I pugged in a fan to run it down to zero. It worked, the R300 is now fully functional and as of right now has been running a BougeRV 53 quart fridge for the past 12 hours down to 35% battery capacity with the temperature set for 20F. I'm hoping the panel will keep the R300 topped up to run the fridge. Customer support through Amazon took a few days and I had to go looking for the reply message as there was no notification sent to my email address. This is the message I received: Good day to you.

    Could you please restart the power station. Please discharge it and full recharge it at one time without stop, then press the power button to restart it.

    Best regards,


    Golabs Customer Service

  17. LONG TERM UPDATE: In the 15 months that I've had mine, it has performed flawlessly. But I'm a bit concerned that the capacity (measured running a Vevor/Alpicool CX50LG freezer using AC from the R300 through a Kill-A-Watt) has dropped from the original 250Wh, down to 217Wh now. Specifically, it repeatably reaches 200Wh with just 8% left on the display.

    A few notes about the possible causes, if nobody else is seeing this capacity reduction. Most of its use happened in the 4th month of the 15 months. Sometimes for several days at a time, I had it (continuously or intermittently) charging via PD while powering the freezer via AC, an odd UPS-like setup. After the heavy usage in month 4, it mostly sat unused and fully charged for a few months at a time. When I do use it (including during my AC-output capacity tests) I turn on all 3 output types, because failing to do so can cause it to shut off with my freezer load dropping to less than a watt when the compressor and fan are off. The only way I charge it is via USB-C PD.

    I'm going to cycle it 100% to 10% and back every week or two from now on, and mostly leave it at 70% rather than 100% when not expecting to use it.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *